BUONGIORNO FROM VENICE!
Having just returned from a Mediterranean cruise, I wanted to share my excitement about the city where the cruise originated, Venice, Italy. It had been many years since I visited, and I was pleasantly surprised with the city’s condition and ambiance!
A visit to Venice can last a few hours, many months, a few years or the rest of your years, it all depends on how much you love life. It definitely has a personality all its own and is unique to most cities. Venice has a land area of only 177 square miles, has a population of 62,000, and is built on 117 islands with 150 canals and over 400 bridges. It is situated in Italy’s northeast corner known as the Veneto region, on the coast of the Adriatic Sea. The average temperature in January is 38 degrees, and July 75 degrees.
The city is divided into six zones: San Marco, San Polo, Cannaregio, Dorsoduro, Costello and Santa Croce. Although there are six zones, it is possible to cross the city on foot in under an hour. The zones do not have a strict physical division, but rather unique characteristics. Dursoduro is the university district; Cannaaregio is home to the historic ghetto; San Marco proudly features the Basilica and Piazza, which is probably one of the world’s most famous squares; San Polo is a down-to-earth area where the locals live and hang out; Castello has the beautiful Giardini and Biennale (Venice Arts Festival); Santa Croce is next to the station, just after Ponte degli Scalzi.
Venice is a rather sleepy city when you compare it to other major cities of the world. There are several reasons for this, one is lack of space for new development. Additionally the means of getting around the city is not conducive to a late night out since there are no vehicles. Many of the Venetians enjoy entertaining friends in the privacy of their home, and historically few restaurants stay open late. However, recently more restaurants have chosen to feature live music to entertain after dinner hours.
Campo Santa Margherita in the summer is an exception to this rule. Hundreds of students on break transform the square into a pleasure pavilion, with restaurants, live music and frequent art exhibitions. Another exception is during Carnevale in February when the streets are filled with costumed and masked residents and visitors alike enjoying a café or glass of “vino”. In September Campo San Polo houses an open-air cinema, where you can sit under the stars and watch recently released films at the Biennale Cinema. The Teatro Goldoni features an operatic-symphonic season well worth experiencing during the winter months.
Venice is the only European city (and one of the few in the world) to have its public transport entirely on the water. The main waterway in Venice, The Canal Grande, is shaped like an “S” hence if you wish to travel from San Marco to the Rialto Bridge by boat, it will take you twice as long a if you were to walk. The Grand Canal has only three bridges, but at certain points along the canal you can hire a traghetto (a passenger gondola) to cross the stretch of water, saving a great deal of time.
If you prefer to take a water taxi it is wise to negotiate the price before stepping aboard. Gondolas are subject to additional charges, and generally you will be charged for an hours ride regardless of the time you spend on board. But there is nothing like a gondola ride in Venice, winding down the small canals. However, we did not find many singing gondoliers, and they chuckled when we asked to be serenaded. As a result of a request from a client, and dear friend, I came to learn the first female gondolier was ready to break the “all male” tradition and profession that has been handed down from father to son for many years. Unfortunately, as hard as I tried, neither my client nor I were able to locate the female gondolier, but I was told she has past her tests and was soon to appear on the scene! Maybe next time!
Vehicles do not operate on the Venice Island and many of the surrounding islands, Burano and Murano for example. Everything brought to the islands arrive by boat, everything! As well everything that needs to leave the island is transported by boat, hence the canals are very busy carrying supplies, equipment, laundry, trash, building materials, everything you can imagine. I was amazed at the amount of traffic, and yet the canals were clean. I was told every morning there is a sweep through the canals to pick up any debris, there is NO DISPOSAL allowed in the canals. It is a fascinating experience to linger in a café watching the coordination of everything required to operate a city in motion.
The Basilica di San Marco is located in the heart of the city and is a must see. There is little else that illustrates the relationship between Venice and Byzantium so perfectly. The main façade looks out over the Piazza San Marco, with four portals that lead into the body of the church. Immediately next to the church, and in perfect harmony with its neighbor is the Palazzo Ducale, the Doge’s Palace. Built as a simple castle, this has evolved into a symbol of Italian architecture and engineering. It is the home of art works of exceptional importance, but unfortunately has also lost many pieces to fire over the centuries.
A visit to Venice must include a visit to several of the islands which provide an integral part in the city’s history. Murano island is the home of blown glass, which resulted when the artists were required to move their equipment from the main island for fear of fires that could result from the kilns. Burano is an island of color and fabulous lace creations. Hiring a boat to visit these islands is a wonderful experience and you should include the areas of nature located in the northern lagoon near Burano. Lido Island provides a beautiful beach with all the entertainment of a classic resort area, including three Casinos.
The restaurants in Venice offer a wide variety of choices, ranging from international fast food to five-star Italian cuisine. Many of the specialties are seafood based, and there are excellent vegetables in-season from the gardens of the Isola di Sant’Erasmo. There are many bars and osterie (a tavern or humble restaurant) close to the Rialto Market, which serve fresh food. Places like Da Pinto offer high-quality Venetian dishes that cater to locals and tourists alike. The Veneto region loves good food and good wine. A number of Venice’s top-quality gourmet restaurants can be found in San Marco, the most prestigious area of the city, Do Forni and Atico Pigolo to name a couple. The true spirit of experiencing Venice happens at one of the cafes located in the piazza, famous for it’s coffees, teas, desserts and light lunches. Café Florian looks out onto the piazza and offers an exquisite and unforgettable experience.
Venice has moved onto my listing of favorite cities to visit, so you can expect to hear more from me about this unique and glorious place.
